When we left Nong Khiaw for Luang Prabang (both in Laos), the very quiet mountains were quickly replaced by the gentle hum of traffic and life in the ‘city’. Then, Hanoi was a real shock – louder, busier and less organised than even Bangkok! So when we read that Hoi An, half way down the coast of Vietnam, was a tourist trap, we were a little worried. I was craving sunshine, but didn’t want to pay top dollar for a room near the beach in a tourist strip. But I needn’t have worried, because Hoi An is relaxed, friendly and gorgeous, both by night and day.
It didn’t start well though – we arrived at 3pm on a Friday to receive an email telling us that the hotel we had booked was full, despite them having taken our money immediately for the booking. The money, we’re told, will return to us immediately (still waiting 3 days later…).